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An Unremarkable Feat

Photo by Christa Galloway

I came to work yesterday morning, absolutely buzzing. I’d just done something momentous (in my mind, at least). It would be a strange boast to many, but when I told my coworker, she congratulated me, her eyes lighting up with genuine pride. I told everyone, some people twice, whether they understood the occasion or not, riding an unbelievable high and wringing it for everything it was worth.

I’d driven my son to school.

No, it was not a particularly long or arduous drive, but it was a drive I wasn’t sure I would ever take.

To explain, I’ll need to take you back six years, shortly after we moved to Scotland. We had a tight budget, so we bought an older car, a manual Fiat 500. I hadn’t driven in a few years since we’d been living in Egypt, but I was excited to take the new car out for a spin. I loved driving. I’d worked two jobs during my first year of college to buy my first car, a beautiful blue Dodge Colt. I’d relished the freedom it gave me, often going on a drive alone, just for fun. A couple of decades later, I had a 45-minute commute to work in a manual Toyota Matrix and I once traversed the mountainous west coast of Canada in a Toyota 4Runner, pulling a trailer in the snow. By the time we moved to Scotland, I’d been driving for almost thirty years.

I got behind the wheel of the Fiat, full of confidence.

It did not go well.

Shifting gears with my left hand was surprisingly awkward and I turned on the wipers instead of the turn signal. Meanwhile, driving on the left side of the road somehow meant I constantly drifted towards the curb. Multi-laned roundabouts were foreign to me, and the winding roads did not seem nearly wide enough for two cars to pass each other. These were all obstacles I should have been able to overcome. But this time was different. I was unaware that perimenopause symptoms had begun digging their sharp claws into my brain.

I started having a recurring dream that I was driving a blue van down a hill, but it would not slow down, no matter how hard I slammed my foot on the brake pedal, forcing my to swerve around pedestrians, cars and buildings. I would wake up soaked in sweat, heart pounding.

When I had to drive, I was tense well before I even got in the car. Behind the wheel, my heart would start pounding, my breathing became shallow, and my hands sweaty. While I drove, my brain pelted me with images of everything that could go wrong until my hands shook. Drivers honked at me while I struggled to get the old car into first gear, sending me spiralling into a panic that made me fumble the gears even more or stall the car. Driving became a nightmare.

I went to great lengths to avoid driving. It was my shameful secret. I biked eighteen miles to work and back for the exercise, even in rain and sub-zero temperatures. When my husband and I discussed getting a second car, I insisted one car was all we could afford. There were some truths to these explanations, but really, I didn’t want to face my weakness because it felt like being unable to drive made me less of a person. I hit a low point when the school called because my son was sick, and I had to hire a taxi to fetch him.

We switched to an automatic car, which was an improvement, but on the odd occasion I did drive, it often ended badly: a white-out snowstorm at night or a blown tyre on a main road. During this time, the morning news flashed images of Harry Dunn, a nineteen-year-old boy killed by an American driving on the wrong side of the road, further embedding my worst fear.

What if I killed someone?

One day, my husband injured his ankle, and I had to drive him to the hospital in Aberdeen, a 45-minute drive with three roundabouts. I was tense for the entire drive and had to pry my fingers off the steering wheel when we finally came to a stop. I should have gleaned some confidence back, but somehow, I was convinced the uneventful drive was a fluke, and I made my husband drive back with a twisted ankle.

Over time, I became comfortable enough to drive to work on back roads and made enough trips to quiet the voice in my head that was convinced something horrible would happen. But I didn’t drive beyond that unless I absolutely had to, and if I did, it was a tense experience.

We moved to a little hamlet in a valley, surrounded by countryside, with no shops and no public transportation. It seemed idyllic at the time, but without driving, I began to feel trapped. I remember watching a movie about a woman who was meant to be an absolute mess, her life in shambles, but when she drove herself to the airport for a flight, I envied her.

My bubble shrank and became a dark place. Brain fog had set in, and not only was I making constant mistakes at work, but the setbacks caused me to break down. I cried almost every day. I biked my daily route surrounded by beauty and filled with self-loathing. I was convinced everyone would be better off if I didn’t exist.

My husband became worried. He’d always been my rock, but I’d gone to a place he couldn’t reach. He urged me to get help, but the thought of admitting what was happening would make it real, and doctors were another source of anxiety. The self-loathing intensified. I was blessed with a loving, supportive family, yet I remained mired in gloom. I agreed to seek help if it got worse.

Finally, it was a coworker who helped me change my course. She told me about her journey, consulting a doctor about perimenopause and starting HRT, a process that seemed to give her hope. Hope was a drug I craved, and talking to someone who was experiencing some similar symptoms made me feel less alone.

Finally, I got some help.

I spoke to a doctor, my heart pounding and palms sweaty, spewing my story between shaky breaths. She ordered blood tests and ultimately prescribed me hormone replacement therapy (HRT). I discussed my situation with my female boss. She was very supportive and agreed to give me some time off and shift my duties to more office work.

Over the next few months, I slathered myself with oestrogen gel and took tablets, and I began to feel more clear-headed, less emotionally volatile and more like my old self.

I’ve spoken to several friends with perimenopause now, and while HRT is not for everyone, I think it’s safe to say it changed my life. I still have a good dose of brain fog at work, but most customers are understanding, and when they aren’t, I can handle it. The darkness has mostly lifted. There are still dark moments, but even if I can’t always see the light, I remember the glow of bright days, and I know the dark is temporary. My bubble feels bigger now, if only because the thought of driving doesn’t send me into a panic. In fact, when I get behind the wheel, I feel almost… normal. I’ve made goals for myself, small goals, like driving to the charity shop in the village, or the supermarket outside Aberdeen.

I’m thankful to live in a time where women talk to each other and be honest about our issues. This is one of the reasons I wanted to write this post. If you are going through something like this, please know that you are not alone, and there is help available. I hope you can find someone you trust to talk to.

Which leads me to my unremarkable feat.

Yesterday morning, my son missed his school bus.

“It’s okay,” I said. “I’ll drive you.”

And I did.

—-

Here are some resources I used to learn more about what was happening to me:

NHS Menopause Help and Support

The Menopause Doctor

My doctor referred me to Menopause Matters to learn more about symptoms and HRT.

Wednesday 08.21.24
Posted by Christa Galloway
Comments: 2
 

It's been awhile...

Edinburgh, from the Edinburgh Castle. Photo by C. K. Galloway

Well hello there.

Long time no see. I’m still alive, in case you were wondering.

I’ve been in a bit of a rut. I’ve barely picked up my camera in the last three years. To be fair, I spent the last three years working in a creamery, making cheese. It was physically exhausting. Picking up a camera after spending a day manhandling (or should I say ‘womanhandling’) 300kg of cheese curd was not high on my priority list. Also, there was a pandemic in there somewhere.

I did go places. The photo above was taken on a trip to Edinburgh when my parents came to visit. I found it today, in a file of photos I hadn’t even edited.

It is possible I am out of my rut now. I’ve moved, still in Scotland, but a little south and a little east. I have a new job. I work at a farm shop, ostensibly as front of house, but I spend most of my time doing design, photography and social media. Whether it’s because I’m good at design, or because I’m rubbish at waitressing, I’m not sure. It is hard to remember customer’s orders with perimenopause churning your brain into mush, whereas reacquainting myself with photography and design is like slipping on my favourite hoodie.

So, I’ve updated my site with some of my recent work. Please take a look at my portfolio. I hope you like it. If you’re hoping to see more posts here, it’s quite possible!

Wednesday 03.15.23
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Sibling Rivalry Gone Mad

The earth goddess Coatlicue (koe-at-lee-kway) was the mother of four hundred sons and one daughter. She probably should have had her feet up for the rest of her life after such a feat, but at the beginning of this tale, she is sweeping a mountaintop. Still doing housework!?! I mean, couldn’t one of her four hundred and one children have given her a hand, or like hired someone for her? Ungrateful wretches.

Read more

Friday 08.21.20
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Highlander for an hour

A Munro is a mountain in Scotland that rises more than 3000 feet. It’s a badge of honour to “bag” a Munro.

A Munro is a mountain in Scotland that rises more than 3000 feet. It’s a badge of honour to “bag” a Munro.

This is a story about not bagging a Scottish Munro.

Read more

Friday 07.24.20
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Quest for the Migvie Stone

The Migvie stone, a two-metre-high stone carved with both Christian and Pictish symbols.

The Migvie stone, a two-metre-high stone carved with both Christian and Pictish symbols.

I tread softly through the graveyard, trying to avoid stepping on any graves. The wind pushes at my back as if urging me forward, but when I nip around the back of the stone church, it abruptly fades, leaving an eerie silence in its wake. A set of nondescript doors stand in front of me. There is no door handle. I place my hand on the faded wood and push. The door slides open easily. The inside of the church contains a darkness so complete, the sunlight behind me cannot penetrate more than a few inches. I step inside. My footsteps ring out on the stone floor. I freeze for a moment, half expecting the roar of an ancient creature, angry at being disturbed from a deep slumber. When no such creature appears, I take a few more careful steps into the darkness, my hands waving in front of me. Suddenly the room is flooded with light as motion sensor lights click on. I look around in wonder. Giant stone chairs occupy the centre of the room. Pictish stained glass images adorn false windows, and various pieces of art are displayed on the walls. Tiptoeing around the room, I explore the various treasure contained in the renovated church, touching Pictish stones and delicately thumbing through a worn leather-bound bible. There are Pictish stones embedded in the walls and another large one in a fitted display, but the stone I’m looking for isn’t here. I consult my map and creep back out into the graveyard. One of the stone towards the entrance is a bit rougher than the others. I trace the circular carvings with my hand. The Migvie stone. Satisfied, I mount my green steed and ride down the hills. Today’s quest is complete.

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Sunday 03.08.20
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

The Fat Cheesemaker

The “Make Room” at the creamery I worked at in Scotland. Photo by Christa Galloway.

Fatness can creep up on you. You don’t notice a pound here or a couple of pounds there. But then, one day, bam! You frickin’ notice. And it ain’t pretty.

It happened to me the first day of my new job as a cheese-maker. Cheesemakers wear “whites.” White pants (trousers in British) and white shirt. Obviously, this particular fashion garment colour was a man’s decision. Women will know what I mean. But hey, I was game. This was the first day of my new life. This job would make me a real person, all the immigration crap would be worth it, and I’d finally be accepted by the Scottish people. Hah!

After a brief tour of the cheese-making facilities, my trainer directs me to a room to get ready. It’s not a room so much as a hall between other rooms, a small space surrounded by doors. The cheesemakers are all men, so this is not a big deal for them. I’m assured that no one will come in until I’m ready. I root around the bin of clothing and I find a large shirt. Fits great. Now for the pants. Medium, small, small, small, medium. Oh shit. Fatness might have been creeping up on me, but I have not been a medium for many years. I hold up a pair of medium trousers, pull at the elastic waist band and frown. I pull harder. Nope, that is not nearly big enough. I start to sweat as I paw through the rest of the clothes.

There, at the bottom, there is a pair of pants with no elastic. The waist is enormous. They will fit, but there is a distinct possibility that at some point they will fall down. The idea does not appeal. Hmmm… maybe the medium will fit. I shove my legs in and pull. The waistband doesn’t make it past my upper thighs. Double shit. I have a decision to make. Either I put some muscle into it to get them over my hips and accept the possibility I may never get them off again, or I can go with the enormous pair. I am struck with indecision, standing in the hall with the pants halfway up my legs and getting redder in the face and sweatier by the second.

Big, I’ll wear the big pants. I whip off the mediums and throw on the clown pants. They sag, but it’s worse than I thought. There is a fly on the front with no fastening hanging open. A knock on the door, “Are you ready?” Panic. “Yes,” I lie. I quickly pull down my shirt, covering the gaping fly and plaster an easy-going smile on my face.

For the rest of the day, I learn how to make cheese while surreptitiously trying to prevent any unintentional flashing.

The first day passes and I don’t see any traumatized expressions on my co-worker’s faces, so I think I managed to stay decent. At the end of the day, I throw the trousers in the laundry bin and put on my own pants with relief.

“Can you work tomorrow?” asks my boss. Well, I must have done ok. I wasn’t supposed to come in again until next week, but I agree readily.

The next day, I bring in an elastic belt to hold up the big pants. I’m impressed with my cleverness. No need to risk flashing anyone and I can fix my full attention on the job. I search through the bin of trousers for the big pants. My fingers touch the cold metal of the bottom of the bin and panic seizes my muscles.

They are not here.

I pull out a pair of medium pants. Surely these are mislabeled. They must be small. I pull out another pair. Maybe they are marginally bigger. A drop of sweat trails down my back. I could just leave. Get in my car and drive away and pretend all this didn’t happen. But I think I like this job. And they know my phone number and my address. How would I explain my disappearance? Also, I think my husband figure out I’m no longer employed.

Or, I could be an adult and tell my trainer I’m too fat for the trousers. I think about my co-workers. My vegan, fit, exercise-happy, uber-healthy co-workers who cycle fifteen miles to work everyday. Nope. Not going to be an adult today.

Only one choice remains. I get a good grip on the mediums, breathe out and suck my belly in, legs tensed, biceps straining, I yank the pants up. The waistband inches over my thighs. I pull harder. Wham! The elastic snaps around my waist. I did it. Tentatively, I breathe in. It’s not a full breath, but heck it’s good enough to sustain life. The pants aren’t too bad. It feels a bit like wearing a corset. English women used to wear these every day. I got this.

Taking small steps, I walk into the cheese room and get to work. Nobody comments on the fact my thighs are straining to escape from the constricting white fabric. I get through most of the day without hulking-out.

The cheese is safely in the drying room and it’s cleanup time. The last job is cleaning the floor grates. My boss squats down as easily as a five-year-old waif and pulls up a grate, showing me how to brush it clean. “So, can you finish this off?” he asks.

I look at him. I’ve managed most of the day without bending over more than 15 degrees and squatting will probably cut me in half. Christa Galloway, tragically killed by an elastic band. The mortuary had to sew her torso back onto her body.

Be an adult, Christa, tell him you can’t possibly bend down in these tight pants. Tell him you need bigger trousers.

Do I fess up? Nope. I just nod. I discover I can clean the grates by kneeling instead of squatting if I mostly bend at the knees and straighten when I need to breathe. By the end of grate cleaning, it is clear to me the medium pants are not going to work. The five-minute struggle to remove the pants at the end of the day confirms it.

That night, I drive home mad at myself for being immature and ashamed of being fat. I comfort myself by eating an entire bag of Doritos and a bag of chocolate.

I tell myself I can postpone the inevitable awkwardness because the enormous trousers should be washed by now. The next day, I search through the bin. They are still not here. Tears well, sweat collects, breath becomes shallow. I feel the dread of realizing there is just no good outcome. My brain is full of white noise. Can’t think.

Time must have passed because, my trainer comes over and asks if everything is okay. I have no choice, it’s time to grow up. I straighten my shoulders. I say none of the trousers will fit. I need a large size.

“But have you tried the mediums? They’re huge,” he says. I know what you’re thinking, but he is still alive. His wide-eyed innocence only marginally protects him as my self-loathing gathers and re-directs into a stoney glare. He gulps. “I’ll order you some troosers,” he says. His Scottish twang tempers my rage only slightly.

He is as good as his word, and the next week the large troosers arrive. Pulling the waistband easily over my hips, I smile. Yes, I’m still fat, but my self-loathing has ebbed to a dull throb. It occurs to me I could have been honest from the beginning and avoided a lot of emotional turmoil and shame. It pains me to admit that at 42-years-old, I still have a lot of growing up to do.

I did end up tearfully confessing my insecurities to a co-worker. She responded with hugs and empathy. When I called myself fat, she corrected me, saying I’m not fat, I’m voluptuous. Her compassion made me stop and think about the negative spiral I get into about my weight. I may be “a large” but I am not defined by my pant size. I am an empathetic listener, a creative writer, a good mother and wife and a decent human being. My co-workers were not the source of my shame, I was.

If you find yourself in a situation like this, give people a chance to be kind, they might surprise you. And if not, f—k ‘em.

Thursday 01.09.20
Posted by Christa Galloway
Comments: 4
 

Day Trip to Ullapool

Oscar Galloway looking out over Loch Broom in Ullapool. Photo copyright Christa Galloway.

Oscar Galloway looking out over Loch Broom in Ullapool. Photo copyright Christa Galloway.

One of the things I love about where we live in Scotland is how easy it is to get to places. Where I’m from in Ontario, you can drive for hours in any direction and all you will find is more of the same. Here, you can head west and breath the ocean air of the Atlantic, east and you’re in the North Sea, south is England, and north you find the islands of Orkney and Shetland. We took a day trip to Ullapool this week, and it was a whole new world of bare mountain peaks, ocean breezes, deep gorges and lovely seafood.

 

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Wednesday 07.17.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Scolty Hill - One woman’s triumph over an ‘easy to moderate’ hill trail

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“I don’t like you right now,” I said to Richard between gasps. A lady coming down the hill had just looked at me sympathetically, saying, “it’s not much further dear,” dispelling my notion that I was only suffering on the inside.

“Why?” He asked.

I gave him the death glare. Not my best work with all the wheezing, but it got the message across.

“I thought you’d be happy this way is quicker,” he said with much less sympathy than the stranger I’d just seen.

Funny thing, the quicker way up a hill is also the most vertical.

“Come on, the view will be worth it,” he declared as he skipped ahead.

I grumbled my way up the last few metres but I had to grudgingly admit the view was spectacular. Once I’d caught my breath I even voluntarily climbed up the tower staircase.

I was feeling quite proud of myself as we made our way down, even though my legs shook with every step. Then I saw something that made my blood run cold.

A dude was jogging up the steep path.

Bleep.

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categories: Living in Scotland
Monday 02.11.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Creativity Emerging From Procrastination

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“I’ll just play with this for a bit, then I’ll start my to do list,” I told myself. Now it’s end of the day and I’ve designed a trading card for a resource that is already done and my to do list is depressingly unchanged.

But that’s what tomorrow is for, right?

tags: design, procrastination, mars, god
Thursday 02.07.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
Comments: 1
 

The Pedestal Lowers

“What happened to the card I made you mummy?”

“Some water spilt on it, sweetie.”

A pause. The look in his eye. Another hairline crack in the myth of the all-powerful Mother. She who holds every scribble, every participation certificate, every lego invention as precious. She who can protect him from any danger.

I became a little more human today.

tags: motherhood
Wednesday 02.06.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

The Hills of Bennachie

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Every morning I get a view of Bennachie on the school run, and every morning one line of a song drifts through my head.

Up among the heather, on the hills of Bennachie.

It’s from a Scottish folk song called Mary Mac, but I know it because it was covered by Great Big Sea, one of my favourite Canadian bands. I listened to it so many times in my youth that the words are burned into my brain forever. If you know the song, you’ve probably got brain worms right now.

You’re welcome.

…

Hang on a minute. Now that I’ve seen that line written, a great puzzle has been solved. That mysterious purple flower we saw on our hikes up the mountain, it’s heather. Duh.

tags: Bennachie, Scotland, Great Big Sea
categories: Living in Scotland
Tuesday 01.29.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Return to Scotland - A Visa Success Story

Robert the Bruce statue in Aberdeen, Scotland. Photo by Christa Galloway.

Robert the Bruce statue in Aberdeen, Scotland. Photo by Christa Galloway.

A UPS man arrived at a country house in snow-covered Ontario, only to have a strange woman race up to him with wild eyes. He read the name on the thick envelope and she cried “Yes!” and tore the envelope from his gloved hands. He convinced her she had to first sign for the package before ripping it open, then grinned like a hero while she pressed the package to her chest and exclaimed how happy she was. She would see her family. She would be home for Christmas.

That woman was me and the envelope held my passport with a visa.

I booked a flight for two days later. Now that I’ve returned to Scotland, my six-week sojourn in Canada is a fond memory. With my residence permit safely in my possession I can get my life started. I no longer feel like a tourist in my own home. I’m a local, and proud. When people disparage Aberdeen as the concrete city, I am quick to leap to its defense, pointing out the architecture, the parks the sea,even the new bypass. Having taken a long road trip to Wiltshire, I can safely say the traffic here is much better, especially for a Canadian like me who is used to wide roads and comprehensible traffic rules.

I had no inkling of how traumatic (and expensive) the move here would be, but now that life is settling into its rhythms, the memory of the process is fading. After all, the fickle nature of memory is essential to human survival. Otherwise women wouldn’t give birth more than once, and then where would we be?

Now for the next challenge, using my hard-won work visa and getting a job!

tags: visa, immigration, UK, Scotland, jobsearch, family, reunite, Aberdeen
categories: Living in Scotland
Wednesday 01.23.19
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

A Month Without Alcohol

When we lived in Egypt, every time (and I mean every time) we had a glass of wine, my husband would comment, “I’d be surprised if this wine has ever seen a grape.”

He’s not wrong. Most Egyptian alcohol is barely a step up from turpentine. Not only that, but living in a Muslim country meant that there was a real stigma attached to drinking alcohol. We drank behind closed doors or at certain select restaurants. Even though we were not Muslim ourselves, it felt disrespectful to drink, even in private.

So, you might wonder why we waited until we moved to Scotland to quit drinking.

We came to the United Kingdom in June and we went a bit crazy. The wine was cheap and made from grapes, and there were entire supermarket aisles full of every type of liquor imaginable. We had local craft beers, limoncello, two kinds of whisky, three kinds of gin, a selection of red and white wines, cherry cordial… the list goes on. It really became noticeable when we were informed that the recycling pick-up does not accept glass. My husband was making a walk of shame to the tip with a crate or two of glass bottles twice a week. Slowly, it became obvious that we might have been going overboard. So we decided to take a month off.

Here’s what happened:

Day 1 - It’s a weekday, but I’m stressed about getting my visa and craving a beer. I stare at the shiny green bottles of Stella in the fridge, but I manage to resist.

Day 5 - TGIF! My husband comes home but instead of having a gin and tonic together to celebrate the weekend, he plays video games, and I watch the tele and try not to think about limoncello. 

Day 6 - Not drinking is much less sociable. I’m bored of the tele. Instead of alcohol, I eat chocolate. Lots of chocolate.

Day 7 - My husband makes his Sunday roast, but it’s missing something… what is it… oh yes, a glass of WINE. Who came up with this idiotic idea anyway?

Day 8 - First weekend complete, I pat myself on the back. Or at least I would, but I appear to have gained a bit of weight. Maybe it’s all the chocolate.

Day 12 - The week passed without any cravings, but it’s Friday again. We pick up some ginger beer at the store. I drink it over ice and pretend it’s a real drink.

Day 13 - Between the ginger beer, chocolate, cheesecake, potato chips and cheese, I’m confident that I’ve been replacing alcohol with food.

Day 14 - Urgh

Day 15 - Are there really two more weekends after this?!?!?

Day 16 - Weekday drink cravings have officially ended. Hooray. Stay can’t pat myself on the back though.

Day 17 - Getting up in the morning is easier.

Day 19 - It’s Friday, but it’s cool. We’re developing as people. We make an effort to spend time together sans booze. I think we find each other just less than half as interesting when we’re sober. We’ve learned put some chocolates on a plate instead of bringing out the whole tin.

Day 20 - When I ask my husband if he wants a drink, he knows I mean ginger beer.

Day 21 - Sunday roast without wine isn’t so bad. Feeling very self-righteous - wait, we have another whole week to go! What?

Day 23 - Do I have more energy? Yeah, I think I do. My brain is sharper too. Super productive day.

Day 24 - I have my first Scottish head cold. It’s the lack of whiskey, isn’t it? The bacteria are celebrating my lovely, non-toxic cells. 

Day 25 - It’s been 25 days since my husband has had an embarrassing trip to the tip with a bin of bottles.

Day 26 - Weekday chocolate again, uh oh. We might need a month off of sugar next.

Day 28 - Friday! Last weekend without alcohol. That wasn’t so hard. I am resplendent in my self-righteousness. 

Day 29 - Still can’t drink? That doesn’t seem right.

Day 30 - We’ve officially done our month, but we’re still not week-day drinking so…

Day 33 - Wow, I can watch someone drinking wine and not instantly crave a glass. Progress.

Day 34 - The big day is almost here. I can almost taste the red wine sliding down my throat.

Day 35 - It’s over. We can drink. Wait, what’s that Richard? You have tonsillitis? But I can still drink, right? No? What do you mean no?


Going without alcohol for a month has made me notice how I drink to console myself after a bad experience, feel like it’s the weekend or just automatically, without thought. In truth, alcohol is not really necessary for any of these. We went shopping today and picked up one bottle of wine. Just. One. Bottle. Of Wine. Yesterday was Friday and I had one whole beer, immediately followed by a whopper of a headache. My body might be trying to tell me something. Make no mistake, we will drink again, but I hope the days of mindless drinking in front of the tele are over.

This month - no sugar!

Saturday 09.22.18
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Soldiers of Killicrankie

A calvary display at the Soldiers of Killiecrankie Battle Re-enactment.

A calvary display at the Soldiers of Killiecrankie Battle Re-enactment.

Finally, rain! I was beginning to think all this talk of bad Scottish weather was just to keep people out. Until last weekend. In between some epic downpours (the kind that drenches you in two seconds), we had a blast at the battle re-enactment at Killiecrankie, near Pitlochry in Perthshire. We saw horseback sword fights, cannon fire, musket demonstrations, a grumpy magic juggler, a sword dance and almost a beheading before the rain drove us away. Oscar got to hold a real sword, which was a highlight for him. We saw a witch dragged away and tied to a post, while a re-enactor assured us that the blood was fake, which was in hindsight was perhaps a bit worrying in itself. We, the audience, were a real disappointment to the magic juggler who expected a much more enthusiastic crowd, with more lust for danger. Rich and Ozzie did their best to cheer and gasp as appropriate. The magic juggler was either a very good actor, specifically at pretending to be bad (many sharp knives were dropped) or he was a very bad juggler and we were lucky to escape with intact fingers and no unwanted piercings. Overall, everyone was really into it, and it was a lot of fun.

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tags: re-enactment, Killiecrankie, battle, redcoats, Scotland
categories: Living in Scotland
Monday 07.30.18
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Five Reasons to Live In Egypt

Oscar enjoying the desert in Siwa, Egypt. November 2017

Oscar enjoying the desert in Siwa, Egypt. November 2017

As our time in Egypt is coming to an end, I though I would write about some of the best aspects of living here. We’ve lived in Kafr Abdou, Alexandria for almost two years, and although we are very much looking forward to starting a new life in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, there are many things we will miss about Egypt.

1. The People

Siwa, Egypt

Siwa, Egypt

The people in Egypt are, on the whole, quite friendly. They are quick to laughter and often enjoy interacting with foreigners. Of course, you get the odd looney tune, like anywhere. Wherever we go in Egypt, the common greeting is some variation of, “welcome to Egypt.” Egyptians are often genuinely interested in where we come from, and what we think of their country. Being from Canada, I’ve noticed almost every Egyptian has at least one relative who has moved to the great white north. Many return to Egypt - too cold for them. 

Another positive trait is that if you’re ever confounded by something incomprehensible (this happens often) you can be fairly confident that someone will rush to your aid. We were once on the train to Cairo and found our tickets were a week out of date. A family quickly came to our rescue, translated for the ticket collector, found us seats, guided us through the Cairo Station and even booked us a Careem (Egyptian Uber) to our destination. This kind of thing happens a lot. Just act befuddled and help will appear.

Also, Egyptians LOVE children. Unlike the Yukon, where we’ve been kicked out of restaurants at lunchtime because we have our seven-year-old with us, in Egypt children are welcome everywhere. They are also very much fussed over. In a good way. Most of the time. Blond kids are subject to a lot of hair mussing action.

2. The Language

Kafr Abdou, Alexandria, Egypt

Kafr Abdou, Alexandria, Egypt

Most Egyptians in the cities speak at least some English, but if you like languages, Arabic is certainly fun to try. I took Arabic lessons, however, even if you only know the odd word, any attempt to speak Arabic will generally garner a positive reaction. Even, my husband, whose Arabic is limited to yimeen (left) and shimaal (right) is generally rewarded with cheery smiles from the taxi driver. **Note: My husband had read this and wants me to amend that he also knows alatool (straight ahead) and he can mispronounce sabah el kheer (good morning). My most humble apologies to you, Richard, you are indeed a linguist.**

It’s a tricky language, but very rewarding to learn. For me, not only is it fun to speak, but the script is super fun to write. Almost any phrase looks elegant in Arabic. It feels great to be able a read a signpost, or a price label in writing that at first glance, looks like nothing more than squiggles (or a doctor’s prescription). Living in Egypt means that you will always have someone to practise with. And you get better prices at the market if you order in Arabic. 

3. Travel

Temple of Hathor, Dendara, Qena, Egypt

Temple of Hathor, Dendara, Qena, Egypt

Egypt is littered with historical sites and stunning vistas. We’ve seen moray eels, sea turtles and pufferfish the Red Sea, we’ve spent many an afternoon playing in the waves of the Mediterranean, we’ve climbed sandy dunes in a 4X4, floated in salt pools, unwound in hot springs and sailed on the Nile. Then there are the historic sites. We’ve touched pyramids dating from as far back as 2500 BC (they were built when mammoths still walked the earth), we’ve visited temples that are ghostly quiet, and we’ve tread softly in ancient tombs, wondering at the intricate paintings and hieroglyphs. And then there are the times we just chilled by the pool. All without breaking the bank. Our favourite poolside spot only cost 25USD per night to stay.

4. The Weather

The deserted beaches of the Mediterranean Sea in 'winter.' Borg el Arab, Egypt

The deserted beaches of the Mediterranean Sea in 'winter.' Borg el Arab, Egypt

I’m always a bit thrown when people refer to the winter here in Egypt. With temperature lows of about 15C, it feels more like Yukon summer (meanwhile Yukon winter temperatures were often in the -30C range). Most of the time I can walk straight out of our apartment - no need for coats, scarves, mittens and all the paraphernalia of a Canadian winter. And then, in the fall and spring, when Egyptians still consider it to be cold (maybe 24C), we go to the beach and have it all to ourselves. Bliss.

Rain is a big event here. The kids at school go wild. Sometimes they need to be picked up from school early, kinda like a snow day. Once I picked my son up from karate in the rain, and his instructor was aghast that I was going to walk five minutes in the rain. Meanwhile, summer here is way to hot for my comfort. That’s when we usually escape to the UK. But hey, three out of four seasons ain’t bad.

5. The Vegetables

You might think this one is a bit weird, but honestly, the veggies here are just better. It might have something to do with how fresh they are. I mean, they get picked, get loaded onto a cart, pulled by horse into town, and you can buy the veggies right from the cart. Can’t get much fresher than that. The UK gets about 12% of it’s vegetables from Egypt, but they have to wait until it gets there. I get it the same day it’s picked. Oh yeah, and they are cheap. Sometimes when I pick up a few kilos of veggies and fruits, I feel weird just paying 20 EGP (about 1 pound). But hey, I’ll take it.


Egypt may sound great to you right about now, but I feel I must warn you, it’s not all sunshine and roses. Okay, well there is quite a lot of sunshine. But many aspects of life here are difficult to get used to. Namely the pollution, litter, crowds, terrible internet, the green water week of 2018, instant summer sweat and the plethora of bad drivers (who constantly feel the need to serenade others with their car horns). But you certainly can’t say it’s not memorable. We will remember our time here with some frustration, but a lot of fondness. 

tags: expat, Egypt, moving abroad
categories: Living in Egypt
Saturday 05.19.18
Posted by Christa Galloway
Comments: 2
 

A trip to the Siwa Oasis in Egypt

The salt-rimmed Siwa Lake near Siwa, Egypt.

We turn away from the coast and cross an invisible line between green and orange. The UK government advises against all but essential travel here. We are about halfway into our seven-hour-drive from Alexandria to Siwa, an oasis in the Sahara Desert. Every so often we are stopped at a checkpoint and our passports are examined by soldier. Turrets with guns overlook us, a trifle menacing, but the soldiers are friendly enough.

The landscape changes subtly as we drive, scrubby bushes getting thinner and scarcer. The desert is a flat rocky floor, stretching until the curve of the earth hides it from view. Near Siwa, a few trees appear, then fields of palm trees. The sand coloured dessert is broken by blue lakes. Closer, we can see the salt that edges the lake like ice.

The Talist Ecolodge and Farm in Siwa, Egypt.

The Talist Ecolodge and Farm in Siwa, Egypt.

My excitement grows as we turn into our lodge, the Talist Ecolodge and Farm. The colour of the buildings matches the wind-carved sandstone hills behind it. A still pool mirrors the landscape. The tranquility is somewhat marred by the persistence of flies, and we retreat to the screened-in porch.

Oscar exploring the cracks and caves of the sandstone hills behind the Talist Lodge.

Within minutes of our arrival, the kids are all off exploring. Our son, Oscar, and the two children of Lou and Andy, our travelling companions. They find caves, sand hills, and petrified shells from when this desert was a sea bed. They proudly take me on a tour of the caves. I’m told their names, first cave, second cave, third cave and fourth cave. Evidently they are saving their imagination for role-playing games involving dragons and other fantasies. Jemima shows me a magic trick where she disappears into one crack and appears out of another. 

Our room at Talist Ecolodge and Farm in Siwa, Egypt.

Our hut is simple but comfortable. There is no electricity so we go to bed soon after nightfall. At night I can hear the wind in the trees and feel the cool breeze on my skin and I’m feel like we are camping.

Breakfast on the second day is felafel and foul, eggs and bread, and a cheese and tomato mixture. Before our afternoon desert tour, we head into Siwa town. There are many men and children, but not many women. The women are at home. The few we do see are fully covered. Their faces are hidden by loose black cloth and they are hooded and draped in more fabric. Their garb is vaguely sinister, reminiscent of the wraiths from Lord of the Rings. My eyes slide off them uneasily, I feel like they don’t want to be seen. It’s hard to imagine that the hidden figures are regular women.

Most of the people we come across are friendly, we are greeted with smiles. "Mumkin soura, low samaht," I ask. Can I take a photo please. Aywa, yes. I'm given a good luck scarab at a shop where I perused without making a purchase. Life is unhurried here, tourists welcome.

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We drive through town again on our way to the desert with our tour guide Ibrahim and his son. On our way to the desert, Ibrahim waves at most of the people we pass. Young boys in pairs or groups drive donkey-drawn wagons down the streets. Down an alley we see a small boy hit a smaller girl with a stick. “La! La!” Ibrahim shout out the window. No, No. I think this is a small town where everyone look out for each other, where the adults are parents to all the children.

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At the edge of the desert Ibrahim’s son takes some air out of the tires. Soon we are speeding along the sand, revelling in the slip and slide of the vehicle. We go up a steep dune and pause on the the narrow edge. Then we are plunging down, fast. The vehicles fills with gasps, laughs, screams and low exclamations. I laugh, maniacally, a huge grin splitting my face. 

We come to a stop and the kids are out, running. They climb a dune and run back down, laughing and falling. I marvel at the smooth wavy line where the sides of sand meet. This is the desert of movies and adventures. I can imagine slow, laborious steps along the peak with the sun beating down, lips cracking and dry mouth craving water. But today it is fun, we run around and expend energy freely.  There is water in the vehicle and tea and biscuits for later.

The next stop is for sand boarding. Andy jumps on a board and pushes off. He is always first, says Lou. The guides encourage us to sit on the boards like a sled, but we are mad English people and one mad Canadian. We strap in our feet and sail down the sand like we are snowboarding, or surfing. 

I try it only once. I sail down the hill, picking up speed, and bump over car tracks until one finally spills me. I fall into soft sand, unhurt, laughing. The climb up the sandy slope is another matter. The sand slips beneath my feet with each step until I make it to the top, gasping. After that I am content to watch the others play, and photograph the landscape as it changes with the light.

We stop at a hot spring pool on the way back. I would jump in with the others, but there are only men and children in the pool, the woman here are mostly veiled, so I dip my toes in the spring and wander the small oasis.

Back in the 4X4, we crest another steep hill, this time in the dimming light, and then stop and watch the sunset with small glass cups of tea and biscuits. Then it’s back to roads and slow driving and a dinner in the town. Next to our restaurant, crowds of Egyptians spill into the street watching the football match of Egypt versus Morocco. The crowd erupts into cheers and shouts when Egypt scores. I cheer along with them.

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The third day we explore Shali, the old part of Siwa. The broken finger of the old town ruins reach up, as if a stone giant is reaching from inside the earth to grasp Siwa. We climb up stairs and winding paths and wonder what it was like when these were rooms and people lived here. Was this a well? Could this have been a dwelling? Now, it is hard to tell.

We walk further into the other side of town. Here, the old ruins are patched up inhabited. There are no women here, no girls. A group of boys hang out on a wagon. “La, la,” they says as I lift my camera. A man sits on a stoop and his eyes follow us as we pass. A few children chase us. “Take, take,” it sounds like one boy shouts. Take a photo? Or is it Arabic? “Ana mish fahma,” I say. I don’t understand. 

The homes here edge the street and we walk softly, as if we are treading in people’s backyards. This is not a touristy area. I feel like I don’t belong here. I feel like it’s real. Then the street opens up into souvenir stalls and I am half relieved and half disappointed. 

The salt rimmed lake at Siwa, Egypt.

The salt rimmed lake at Siwa, Egypt.

On the fourth morning I wake up with the sunrise and take my camera to the salt shelf of the lake, stalking a patch of still water where the flat-topped hill will be reflected. I find my photo and stop, gazing at the sand and water in the silence. I feel completely at peace and am in no rush to leave. I feel like I’ve found a place with no time. A noisy truck approaches and the spell is broken.

Temple of the Oracle, Siwa, Egypt.

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After lunch we leave on another tour. We go to the Temple of the Oracle, a temple where Alexander the Great was told his father was the god Zeus. Next is the Temple of Amun. It looks like a pile of rubble. At some point it was blown up in search of treasure. We elect to just drive past. At the spring of Cleopatra, the men and children jump into the deep circular pool. Lou shops and I take photos. The bathing suit I brought is modest by Canadian standards, but it would be scandalous here. I’m told I will be able to swim ash the next stop, a salt lake.

We drive out into the desert. Jonah and Oscar are deeply involved in a discussion about Plants vs Zombies. They have been inseparable for most of the trip. My eyes are usually glued to the window. We drive beside another large lake and on the other side are salt mines. Empty trucks drive in, and trucks piled high with salt drive out. Every once and a while there is a rectangular pool of water. 

“Maybe this is the Salt Lake,” jokes Andy.

It was the Salt Lake. 

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Andy is in first, of course, and immediately bobs up. The others join him. Two of the children are soon out again, the salt stings their cuts. I pour water over Oscar’s scrapes and jump in once he has recovered. I float effortlessly in the dense, salty water. I could easily have a nap. But today, frolicking is far too much fun. Soon the children are all out, playing in the piles of salt, and the adults bob in the pool. Is this what it is like to float in space?

We discover that while the salt is pleasant in the water, once it dries it becomes progressively more painful. Ibrahim takes us to another hot spring. This one is behind a gate and full of foreigners, so I have no doubts about plunging into the deep hot pool. The stinging salt is washed away and replaced with a soothing warmth as the setting sun casts everything in a warm glow.

Back at the lodge we enjoy another lovely meal. The main dish features the unlikely combination of eggplant and ground beef and raisins. Nevertheless it is delicious. The kids go to bed, exhausted. The adults stay up late, talking about politics and books, drinking wine and rum we brought from home.

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The next day we decide to stay and enjoy the Talist Lodge. Oscar and I climb the “mountains” of sandstone, swim in the pool and enjoy leisurely meals. We watch the sun dip low in the cloudless sky. It throws out a blanket of warm light before it disappears, leaving behind a pale pink glow. It is Samhain and the veil between the world of the living and the world of the dead is thin. That night we chat by the fire while the kids make robots out of bottles and mud.

A desert rainstorm north of Siwa.

A desert rainstorm north of Siwa.

The drive home is mostly uneventful. Soldiers do the same cursory check of the trunk at each checkpoint. There is a bit of excitement when we pass through a desert storm. The driver slows, uncertain. The storm passes and we are on our way again, careening down the desert road at 140 km/hr, bouncing jauntily. The empty desert is replaced with buildings and light, the silence with cars honking and engines revving, and we know we are back in the city, home.
 

tags: Siwa, Oasis, Egypt, Salt Lake, desert, Shali
categories: Travels
Friday 11.03.17
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Building demolition, Egyptian-style

This is the view from my balcony. I'm not sure how these guys managed, out there in the heat, breathing in dust. After a week with little progress, they brought in machinery to finish the job.

categories: Living in Egypt
Tuesday 10.24.17
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Fair Trade Egypt في مكتبة اسكندرية

Fair Trade Egypt at Alexandria Bibliotheca, Oct 16, 2017.

Fair Trade Egypt at Alexandria Bibliotheca, Oct 16, 2017.

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tags: Fair Trade, Bibliotheca Alexandrina
categories: Living in Egypt
Monday 10.16.17
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Upper Egypt Trip - Part Seven - Aswan and Abu Simbel

The view from the Ekadolli Nubian Guesthouse in Nubian Village on the west bank of Aswan.

The view from the Ekadolli Nubian Guesthouse in Nubian Village on the west bank of Aswan.

The hilarious comedian driver with 25 imaginary children drove us from Luxor to Aswan in a minibus. This time, he was mercifully succint. 

Halfway to Aswan we stopped at the Edfu temple. I was pretty impressed with Edfu, a newer temple from the Ptolemaic Period dedicated to Horus. It is a few thousand years younger than Hatshepsut Temple and very well preserved. It even had a roof. It fell into disuse a few hundred years after it was built when non-Christian worship was banned and it was gradually buried in under 12 metres of sand.

Edfu Temple

Edfu Temple

Hidden staircase

Hidden staircase

A small opening in the wall led to a staircase that climbed the height of the temple, the walls covered in carvings.

Hieorglyphs

Hieorglyphs

Edfu was built during the Ptolemaic period. The Ptolemys were Greek but they carried on building in the Egyptian style with Egyptian hieroglyphs.

Hallway at Edfu

Hallway at Edfu

A ring of hallways and chambers surrounded the sanctuary at Edfu.

Chamber at Edfu

Chamber at Edfu

Many of the carvings of ancient egyptian gods were chiseled out when the Christians came to power.

As we left Edfu, we once again lost Bob. When we found him he was dressed up in a galabeya, the traditional loose ankle-length robe worn by some Egyptians. The salesman was looking very pleased with himself and offered us the “very low price” of 700 Egyptian pounds for the garment. We declined and attempted to extricate dad from the situation with a speedy escape, but our bus driver of many children was no where to be found. While we waited, the vendor stuck to us, lowering the price in drip and drabs. I offered to buy it for 100 pounds. The salesman swore up and down that he had paid 160 for it. He was either a horrible business person or lying through his teeth. He did end up selling it to me for my original price of 100 Egyptian pounds although he sulked and stalked away, only to return, once again cheerful, with more galabeyas for sale. Fortunately the bus driver turned up and we escaped.

We only lost sight of Bob for a few minutes, but this is how we found him at the bazaar at Edfu.

It turned out the galabeya came in very handy at our next resort. It was 41°C and the cool cotton galabeya was dad’s garment of choice. He wore it every morning for the rest of the trip. He likes it so much he asked Mom to find him pattern and make him a few more, including a winter version.

Once more in the minibus, our driver offered to stop at Kom Ombo, another temple, but we were all tired and a bit templed out so we unanimously passed.

Somewhere along the way, Richard said the words I’ve learned to dread… “You’re not going to believe this…” 

He’d booked the hotel for the wrong day. 

He gave us a crooked smile, no doubt hoping we would be amused. Look what Richard has done now, chuckle, chuckle. Aw, shucks. 

We stared at him balefuly. 

He looked down and beavered away on his phone and managed to book another room at the same hotel for that night.

The hotel was stayed at was called the Ekadolli Nubian Guesthouse and it was on the west bank of the Nile in a Nubian village called “Nubian Village.” It looked like it had seen better days but it was a very good price. The room we were first given was a bit reminiscent of a prison cell with no windows, not a great look for a hotel room, but we were grateful to even have a room after the mix-up. Then, without us even asking, they offered to move us to a couple of much nicer rooms on the top level for the same price. 

The food at Ekadolli was absolutely amazing. We didn’t order, they just brought out a selection of deliciousness. The top floor also had a large open terrace where I could lie down and watch the stars. That night I watched the stars for about 30 seconds and before I dragged myself to my room and collapsed into bed, exhausted.

The view from a terrace at Ekadolli Nubian Guesthouse in Aswan.

The view from a terrace at Ekadolli Nubian Guesthouse in Aswan.

The next day was an early start and then off to Abu Simbel. The guesthouse had packed us a breakfast of eggs, bread and cheese for our journey. Abu Simbel was an impressive temple but this one came with a three-hour journey on each side and at 5am start which dulled the impact. If you are going to make the journey to Abu Simbel, I recommend doing it first, before you’re templed out. The artwork was beautiful but we were not allowed to take any photos inside, which I just find painful. 

Abu Simbel almost ended up under a lake. In the 1960s, the Aswan High Dam was being planned which would have caused the two temples at Abu Simbel to be submerged underwater. They were cut into 16,000 blocks and moved 200 metres to the top of the cliff where they were reassembled at a cost of a cool $40 million. Everything was put back in the same position and facing exactly the same angle. It’s impressive. I struggle to put together an Ikea table.

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We stopped for lunch in the Abu Simbel village. Our driver volunteered to get us food at Egyptian prices rather than getting extortionate touristy crap. We had five felafel sandwiches and two bottles of water for 25 Egyptian pounds (about $2 Canadian) and it was absolutely delicious. 

We got back to the hotel in the sweltering desert heat. Sitting under the ceiling fan was like sitting under a blowdryer. We unanimously decided to move to a hotel with a pool. We felt bad telling our host, who had been lovely and accommodating, but we were seriously melting. 

Later in the afternoon our host took us on a tour of the Nubian Village and a Nubian house. I was in a better mood, knowing that I would be able to jump into a pool tomorrow, so I was super excited to get out and do some photography. My dad and Richard came out as well while mother wisely abstained. 

The village turned out to be a market with mostly the same touristy crap we’d seen everywhere, although I found some nice dried herbs. I did buy some calendula after a hard haggle to get the price down to a reasonable level. I would have bought more but I just didn’t have the energy to bargain. It was that kind of heat that just sucks the will to live right out of you.

The Nubian house turned out to be a touristy tea place with an extremely depressed looking crocodile in a relatively small cage. I really hate that kind of thing. I wanted to let it out but I didn’t want to get arrested or be responsible for a vengeful crocodile massacre. I think the heat was addling my brain. We refused tea.

Our guide took us to the bank of the Nile and offered to take us on a boat ride. At this point I was very grateful that my dad dislikes boats so I could totally throw him under the bus. 

“I’d love to go but my dad can’t do boats,” I said, trying to sound regretful.

We headed back to the hotel via a “shortcut” that consisted of slogging uphill through thick sand. If this dude was trying to exact revenge on us, it was working. I stopped occasionally to “take pictures,” breath heaving and sweat collecting in some very uncomfortable places. I’m amazed any of those photos turned out since they were pretty much taken on autopilot.

We finally arrived back at the hotel, kicking sand out of our shoes and coated with a mixture of sweat and grit. I slogged up the stairs to see Mom lounging on the patio under a ceiling fan nursing a rum and coke on ice. I shot her a dirty/envious look. 

An hour later, after a shower and change, sitting under the setting sun in the cooling air, eating another amazing meal, I was a bit sad we were leaving.

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The next morning the hotel arranged a driver for us to take us to the Pyramisa Isis Corniche Resort. We picked this resort because it had a pool and we could just afford it. I asked for rooms near the pool and we were “upgraded” to rooms as far away from the pool as you can get, down a narrow cement corridor. Even though only we saw five other guests the whole time we were there. Turned out the hotel was fairly soulless with lacklustre food, wierdly dark bathrooms and bonus cockroaches in the room. It did have a pool though. And the location right on the Nile was fantastic.

I was a bit relieved to leave the next day. Back home to Alexandria. No more having to worry about the state of the hotel we were headed to or booking mix-ups. We got through the multiple layers of security at Aswan airport and settled for a short wait until our flight.

Except Rich couldn’t find his iPad. 

He’d left it in the room. Aaaaargh. He loves that iPad. He’s on there all the time. If I was on a sinking ship and the iPad was on another sinking ship and he had a rescue boat, I’m not 100 percent sure he’d come get me first.

He called the hotel. No answer. I can make it to the hotel and back in time, he said. Only if you’ve developed a superpower and can freeze time. He managed to look panicked and degected at the same time. I hugged him. His hands were shaking.

Richard called the driver that had taken us to the hotel. Miraculoulsy the driver agreed to go to the hotel to see if he could get the iPad. We searched for the hotel’s phone number online with no luck. Then mom came through, dredging up a hotel business card with a working phone number from her purse and Rich managed to get through. They said they would look and hung up. Rich called back, they’d found the iPad and the driver arrived. The iPad was on it’s way! Rich would have to go out and come back in through three sets of security. The bus arrived to take us to the plane. Oscar and I waited while mom and dad boarded. Rich texted that he was on his way. A bus load of people had arrived at security just before Richard. The second and last bus pulled up. The last few people boarded. Oscar and I, at the end of the line, came up to the boarding agent. We need to wait for my husband, I explained in broken Arabic. I looked over my shoulder, I saw him!

Rich arrived!

With his iPad!!

Hooray!!!

We got on the plane, all of us and all of our devices. 

I was truly amazed at this driver. He’d met us only once but he’d driven to the hotel and brought Rich his iPad even though a hundred things could have gone wrong and he very probably wasn’t going to get paid anything. The hotel might not have found the iPad. The flight might have left. The traffic might have been bad. Hotel security might not have let him in.

In any case, he did get paid, plus a very grateful tip. Plus a big unexpected hug from Richard.

If you ever need a driver in Aswan, here is one you can definitely trust:

Fared Abdallh Mohamed Salyn
Tour Manager
Hand Stuff Nodu (Don’t ask me what this means)
fared_pop@hotmail.com
01220719865


 

tags: Aswan, Egypt, Abu Simbel, Edfu, Nubian Village, desert, temple, Ekadolli Guesthouse
categories: Living in Egypt, Travels
Wednesday 05.03.17
Posted by Christa Galloway
 

Upper Egypt Trip - Part Six - Pickup Truck Tour of the Desert

It was our last day in Luxor. Our host, Mahmoud, offered to take us out to the desert villages in the back of a pickup truck. They’d prepared the truck bed with an assortment of chairs, carpets and colourful cushions. The final look was somewhere between a Maharaja’s palace and a redneck bush party. 

My mother (or her majesty queen of Luxor as she now likes to be called) sat on her “throne” with her hat and fan, waving graciously at the villagers. Most of the Egyptians we passed waved back and seemed delighted and amused by our strange parade. A few kids even hopped on the truck for a short ride. We were greeted with shouts of “welcome” and broad grins wherever we went, a far cry from the “death to infidels” nonsense peddled by the media. I was glad my parents got to experience the generous warmth of these people.

I had a great time observing and capturing little snippets of daily life on camera. Dad was snapping away as well. He seemed incredibly happy during the tour and said that despite the heat, he could have done it all day. I had a similar sentiment. It was one of my favourite experiences of the entire trip.

Dusty and windblown, we stopped for a quick tour and cold drink at El Moudira, a beautiful and tranquil hotel in the desert. We all tried to behave around the posh people. Then we were back on the road.

Our destination was St Tawdros (St Theodore's) Coptic Orthodox Christian Monastery, in the desert near Medinet Habu. We removed our shoes and stepped reverently in the quite, peaceful chapel. The walls contained both carvings of Coptic crosses and hieroglyphs from recycled stone originating in nearby temples.

Afterwards we visited the gift shop where a variety of goods could be found. It was a strange mix of religious items and cheap plastic toys. We bought some frankincense and locally made honey. One nun demonstrated plastic cross that came apart to show it was also a pen. She seemed to think it was the best thing ever, but sadly there were no takers.

That night, back at Nile Compound, we sat on the balcony, smoked shisha and played cinquante-huit (a french card game). I was slightly concerned about Aswan and my next budget hotel choice but I didn’t let it bother me. Que sera sera.
 

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tags: luxor, Egypt, monastery, desert, village, el moudira, Coptic Orthodox Christian, St Tawdros
categories: Living in Egypt, Travels
Tuesday 05.02.17
Posted by Christa Galloway
 
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